At the finish of July, as most of Spain had switched in to summer holiday mode, news spread that Paule Ka’s founder & artistic director, Serge Cajfinger, had departed his brand to pursue personal projects. If it is true that they still had a hand in the Spring collection, his disengagement came through. The main message consisted of rings of raffia fringe, applied to summer-weight trapeze coats, a truncated pencil skirt, a sleeveless blouse, a clutch, & so forth. It offered textural novelty despite its repetition.
A subtler statementâ��and stronger retail propositionâ��emerged from sheets of organza layered as T-shirts & day-to-night dresses.
& the high-contrast flora print that originated from a Mexican motif won’t date itself anytime soon. The collection’s ’60s thrust extended to miniskirts spliced with a band of chain link & an overall A-line silhouette.
A tight palette of white, black, & citron kept the offering focused, even if such focus also implied limited interest. But the collection was not entirely devoid of inspired design: A new compact handbag shape followed the kind of a macaron box. Until Paule Ka installs a new creative head, a small sweet will go a long way.